Kanpachi Usuzukuri at Blue Ribbin Sushi
"The first time I went to Blue Ribbon, I actually sat down at the wrong Blue Ribbon, which is located just down the street. I didn't really realize it until they brought out a bread basket and I though gee, that's odd that a sushi place would give you a bread basket. The confused look on my face alerted the server, and, with a sigh, she said, 'You meant to go to Blue Ribbon Sushi, didn't you? Happens all the time.' Anyhow, the point is, thank God I found it and thank God I found this dish. Thinly sliced amberjack, raw, with a little cucumber cutout, filled with tangy-spicy-salty yuzu pepper. Take a little chunk of yuzu, lay it on the fish, pop into your mouth. Experience heaven."

Blue Ribbon Sushi, 119 Sullivan Street (at Prince Street); 212-343-0404.

Photo: Steve Hill