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January 7, 2007

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Under the Influence

Under the Influence: Animal Farm

Jewelry designers get primal using powerful creatures as their symbols
for style.

From Celtic mythology to ancient shamanism and the Old Testament, animals have played a powerful role in mysticism as wearable totems. Visions or sightings of some are tied to fertility and wealth, while a dream of another could plainly foresee a professional meltdown (or worse).

Lately, it's not just the superstitious who are taking their cues from the wild things. Jewelry designers have been adorning chains, pins, and enormous rings with bejeweled animal heads, faces, and figures. We chose our favorite breeds from the herd—but remember, these beautiful beasts betoken more than just a current trend. Their meanings date back centuries…so choose your season's symbol wisely.

1. Rabbit: An omen of all things good.
The rabbit symbolizes fertility and renewal for two reasons: One, because rabbits can propagate at an amazing rate (read: "everybody's doing it like rabbits"), and two, because rabbits have become associated with Easter, springtime, and rebirth. In some cultures, bunnies are also linked to moon symbolism, as the moon is always waxing and waning. Some mythologies even believe that the shadows of the moon's surface are in fact rabbits. Brooklyn designer Gerard Tully has become known for his iconic rings, however, we love his rabbit ring ($700), not least of all for its glimmering gemstone eyes.

2. Ram or Big Horn Sheep: A symbol of immortality.
The Ram can sometimes stand for never-ending life because its horns are cast off and shed every year. But it is also an expiatory animal; in many cultures it was used to denote a man's sins (cheaters beware!), and would then be sacrificed. Perhaps that's why it was a ram that Abraham sacrificed, in place of his son, when he was out there living in the desert. Brooklyn-based artist Derrick Cruz of Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons creates a mystical but masculine memento with his Big Horn and Keys to the Gate necklace, crafted from carved porcelain and handmade silver keys ($420).

3. Owl: A bird of the night and a bird of prey.
The owl has long been associated with various dark arts and spiritual powers like the ability to summon a person to the spirit world. In Africa, this majestic bird is tied to witchcraft and sorcery, but in other cultures, dreaming of an owl was thought to be a harbinger of death—maybe the alter ego of Winnie the Pooh's ally. Native American practitioners believe that the owl represents vision and insight. New Zealand designer Karen Walker personifies the owl's wise ways in her sparkling ring in sterling, white, or yellow gold ($245).

4. Antelope: Harmony in music and life.
The antelope signifies harmony both in its literal and figurative meaning (the antelope stands for peace and polity). In some cultures, the antelope also symbolizes innocence and generosity; remember tax season is right around the corner, so consider this guy for a heftier refund. Brooklyn outfit Driftwood Skull honors the antelope's power in its resin necklace ($145) as well as its alabaster pin.

5. Buzzard: The dark side.
There's really no way around it. The buzzard, a natural scavenger, seems always to symbolize the darkest of the dark, from death and demise to general bad things waiting up the road. However, Gerard Tully's bejeweled Buzzard ring ($700) could somehow, if only superficially, show a prettier side to all that darkness.