In her first runway show, Mona Kowalska brings her decade-old collection, A Detacher, beyond just her cult-like fan-base. Sold almost nowhere other than her austere Mott Street shop and known only by those in the know, the runway heralds a new way of doing business for the designer. Held at the Altman Building, the show got under way with a languid pace, each piece dark and mysterious, draped over the body. Program notes recall the the brutal armour of Joan of Arc, "protecting a delicate body." As always, shoes here are special—sandals and booties that seem both exceedingly fresh but still timeless. Gunmetal gray gauze blouses and heavy trapeze dresses, plus a smudged palette of black, green, taupe, and cream predict a moodier spring, but we're more than ready for it.