Tomato: The Smith (pictured) and The Queens Kickshaw

The new Smith, which just opened in Midtown, is bigger than the old one, but it still comes complete with the subway-tiled interiors it's known for. (Never fear, East Villagers, the first Smith still exists.) Roasted tomato soup comes à la French onion, with a lid of cheddar cheese broiled until bubbling and brown at the edges. Puncture it with your spoon, and you'll find a rich, tomato liquid below the surface that's so thick it could be marinara. Tomato soup traditionalists, look no further than the Queens Kickshaw, which serves a sweet silky version to accompany a host of grilled cheese sammies.

The Smith 956 Second Avenue (between 50th and 51st streets); 212-644-2700.

The Queens Kickshaw, 40-17 Broadway (at 41st street), Astoria; 718-777-0913.

Photo: Via The Smith