This time around, patterns are geometrical in nature and also play with light and form in a way that feels totally new. Blocky grids are edged with fluorescent lines inspired by neon diner signs. Squares are stacked, then back-lit to produce a spacy effect. And, there's a fascinating, deconstructed take on plaid, where neat, perpendicular lines turn wavy before completely devolving. Silhouettes, meanwhile, are a pleasing blend of fluid, feminine drapery and menswear-inspired snappy. Colors are rich and moody, with welcome pops of citrus yellow, fuchsia, sapphire, and Kenzo's signature green.
Click on to see every look from fall '14. There may not be an item here that instantly stands out as a populist hit, like the now-iconic tiger top that launched a million fashion sweatshirts. But, it's a measured, beautiful collection that feels more grown-up and thoughtful than flash-in-the-pan.
Oh, and one last thing: We have to say how amazing it is to see women of color so well represented in a major fashion campaign. It's sad that this should be at all noteworthy, but with so many labels still using almost all white models, we have to tip our hat to Kenzo for being one of the few major Parisian luxury brands that seems truly committed to diversity, in a way that doesn't feel token. Here's to lots more of this.