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Isabel Marant fans expect pretty much the same thing from the collection each season — easy-wearing separates that'll look great with jeans, free-flowing dresses that work for both all-night parties and beach-side siestas, and boho-chic accessories that look like they were picked up in an island trip to somewhere far-flung…and Marant consistently delivers on these each season. For spring, it was hit after hit of covetable pinafore-style dresses and tops with romantic, flirty ruffles, floral dresses cinched with skinny leather belts, cropped pants in sumptuous textiles, and micro shorts that only the leggiest among us could pull off. For the waif-thin, too-cool PYT, this Isabel Marant collection was akin to a holy grail.
But for those of us who don't fit that demographic, the collection may feel as realistic as a career as a model (which is to say, not very at all). Plus, with the parade of sun-kissed models with stick-straight locks, the most diverse the strikingly white-washed runway got was Saskia de Brauw and her pixie cut, which is really a shame. Especially contrasted against Rick Owens' explosive, game-changing runway event, Marant's show felt like it was stuck on repeat both in the actual clothes and in the presentation. With her H&M collaboration dropping in November, her designs will be available to a wider swath of women, sizes, ages, and backgrounds than ever before — it'll be interesting to see whether this new association will propel Marant to explore a more panoramic point of view, or burrow her deeper in this niche vision.