Between his recent hire at Versus, an investment from Kering, and rumoured interest from LVMH, it's clear that all eyes are on J.W. Anderson right now. His eyes, meanwhile, seem to be on Japan, which influenced much of his spring '14 collection.
Hosting a who's who of fashion stars (Pixie Geldof, Susie Bubble, et al) at the British Army's Yeomanry House, the Irish boy wonder described a muse who is "sliced and diced and served up again, but she's always slightly broken."
Indeed, there was a definite raw, deconstructed aesthetic going on, with gauzy tiered dresses (done, interestingly, in nylon), unfinished edges, and chopped-up jumpers that exposed a whole lotta side-boob.
Japanese elements abounded, from an obi belt to the models' careful shuffling in black flat sandals ("house slippers"). Anderson also treated his leather and pleather garments with the complexity and precision of a master origamist. Our favourite: intricately pleated skirts that oozed tactile-chic.
Though many in the audience wore the designer's signature windowpane jumpers to the show, this latest collection may prove to be too experimental to cross over (unless, say, sheer pleather bibs attached to sequined skirts somehow make it big). Plus, Anderson has some growing pains to deal with. Case in point: Many of the looks were simply the same style repeated in different colours, suggesting a desire to pad his collection.