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As the reviews and tweets concerning Hedi Slimane's sophomore collection trickle in, it's safe to say that all bets are off with this opinion-dividing designer. While his premiere at Saint Laurent Paris last season (which was also met with mixed reviews) gave industry vets '70s-era déjà vu with updated safari and smoking jackets, yesterday's runway show had those same folks experiencing a different type of nostalgia — this one in the vein of Marc Jacobs' dramatic stint at Perry Ellis.
One look at the collection as a whole, and the immediate impression is Courtney Love and her iconic baby-doll dresses, paired with torn fishnet stockings and her beau's beaten-up plaids. But, there's much more below the surface of the grungy getups — the pieces are relatable to a younger audience, as are Slimane's campaigns with Beck and Sky Ferreria (who sat front row). Though the audience in Paris also featured some of YSL's original muses like Betty Catroux and Catherine Deneuve, the catwalk was obviously geared toward a new generation of dressers — the gals of high-school hallways who are always late to homeroom, not the glamorous jet-setters of yore. And, quite frankly, it makes sense, with Venice Beach being credited as the latest line's underlying inspiration, so says the sometimes-L.A.-based designer (he splits his time between Paris and Lala).
Naturally, growing pains are par for the course, and the most recent designs from the SoCal-dwelling French import predictably resulted in criticism from editors and the like. Take a look at the collection, and share your thoughts on the new chapter of YSL below. Whether you love it or loath it, one thing's certain — this saga is certainly enthralling!
Photo: Courtesy of Saint Laurent Paris