The decor should have been our first clue. For Roksanda Ilincic
's fall 2013 show, the designer had the ornate walls of The Savoy's Lancaster Ballroom partially covered in rough wood panels, suggesting a reaction against conventional elegance.
And that's just what we got with Ilincic's latest collection, where womanly silhouettes and candy hues were given a subversive edge thanks to the addition of slick, sensual PVC, lavish bursts of fur, and gothic elements (including ghostly eye makeup on the models and an Aldo Rise footwear collaboration designed to mimic witches' shoes).
Most startling of all, however, was the very springlike colour palette, with the first look, a knit maxi dress in blush, setting the tone for a collection dominated by baby pink, orange, and apple green
. A straightforward sheath was capped by a wooly collar of tangerine-hued fur, the addition of bright peach collars introduced a new take on the Central Saint Martins grad's signature colour-blocking, and liquidy PVC skirts, dresses, and jackets echoed the kink factor seen at Burberry Prorsum
and Jonathan Saunders
. On the bright side, we're thinking this means we can probably replace our dry cleaner with some kitchen roll.
There were plenty of demure notes as well, with every hem falling past the knee, and gray check-print dresses revealing a hint of a bustle. And, while a sleeveless black number covered in webby silver sparkles suggested a witchy homage to a spider, it was still glamorous and wearable enough to eventually end up on a socialite at a cocktail party.
For us, though, it's all about ditching our go-to blacks and grays in favour of those pretty, pretty pinks next winter. After all, why should Molly Ringwald have all the fun?
Photographed by Sara Kerens