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Just when we figured the Fashion Week beauty zeitgeist was moving toward minimalism, along comes Thom Browne with what may be the week's most daring, high-concept look. And, according to the beauty superstars backstage, the inspiration came straight from the designer himself.
"Thom's very specific about his girl," key makeup artist Sil Bruinsma for MAC explained. "This season, we're doing a much more delicate look, but with Thom, it's always a little wicked." After powdering down the skin, he used Frankly Scarlet to create a "cloud" of color on the apples of models' cheeks. Velvety lips, courtesy of Ruby Woo lipstick and Basic Red pigment, were brushed on in a petal shape. "It looks like a rosebud," Bruinsma noted. "And, it goes well with the thorns in the hair."
Speaking of that hair, then. "Thom said he wanted it to be like a bird's nest," lead stylist Jimmy Paul (for Bumble and bumble) said of the rough-textured, sugar-spun coiff. To create the look, he applied a heavy dose Thickening Hairspray to hair before blow-drying it. Building off of mesh forms for height and volume, he created a double French twist before sealing in the look with Does It All Styling Spray. Red rose accents and crown (some with thorns) topped it all off — a provocative statement that coincided with Pope Benedict XVI's resignation, but you know what they say: The higher the hair, the closer to God.
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Photographed by Erin Yamagata