Peter Pilotto is the Dalston-based label synonymous with heavy color — which made its monochromatic presentation opener quite a surprise. That said, the spring '13 collection did not fall short of our expectations: a highly saturated, visually rich collection. (Hey, why change what works?)
Opening the fourth day of London Fashion Week at the Topshop show space, a pre-coffee/post-party crowd sauntered groggily into the tents, but left with a buzz thanks to the multi-dimensional prints, bedazzling embellishments, and wonderfully in-your-face flounces.
It seems "grown-up" is fast becoming the watchword of the season this collection was just the latest to debut refined and sophisticated shapes. Perfecting the art of tailoring, silhouettes comprised skinny-leg pants, boxy jackets, and artfully cut pencil skirts, all with design details like cutaways, embroidery, and lazer-cut texture. Tailored and polished yet bursting with energy, prints clashed, mirrored gems dazzled, and skirts swished. Suggesting the peplum is set to stay beyond the fall, Peter Pilotto’s versions came with extra volume, extra tiers, and, naturally, extra prints.
Amplifying their signature mastery of color, for spring ’13, Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto (the duo behind the label) focused on multi-dimensionality, with abstract elements and geometric shapes echoed in prints created on special software. The catwalk itself juxtaposed with the collection, as it featured a striking zig-zag design and clashed with the amazing shoes designed by resident shoe-wizard Nicholas Kirkwood. Beauty meanwhile was the show's only simplification, with models keeping it au naturel and hair up in an understated, undone ponytail.
Good job, boys — we're definitely awake now.
Photo: Maria Valentino/MCV Photo